Your first glimpse of a mountain gorilla will take your breath away. Picture a 350-pound silverback, so close you could touch him, gazing into your eyes with a remarkable sense of recognition. Or a tiny baby walking up to you and poking at your leg out of curiosity while its mother cautiously watches. Gorilla trekking in Uganda is the most spectacular wildlife experience on the planet.
But it’s also one of the most expensive. And it’s a logistical nightmare to plan without help. It’s no wonder so many travelers choose to take an all-inclusive tour. But you don’t have to — and you’ll save a lot of money by planning your gorilla trek independently.
After booking flights to Uganda, the first thing I did was start Googling endlessly about how to track gorillas on a budget. I found tons of tour agency reviews and tips for self-driving — but nothing about doing it yourself. So I took a chance and figured it out on my own. It was hard, but I saved around $650 and had a much better experience than I would have on a cheap tour. I learned a lot along the way, which I compiled into this massive post to help you do the same.
Nearly every single traveler who has tracked gorillas in East Africa agrees that it’s worth every penny. So don’t let the cost deter you. Read on for all the gory details of planning a gorilla trek in Uganda on a budget, without a tour.
Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you decide to purchase through these links, I receive a percentage of the sale at no additional cost to you, which helps me keep this site up and running.
First: What “on a budget” means for gorilla trekking in Uganda
Before I dive into the weeds about how to plan your Uganda gorilla trek on the cheap, I want to be clear about just how “on a budget” and “independent” you can be.
Even if you eat nothing but chapati rolls every day and spend only one night camping in your own tent in the vicinity of the gorillas, the minimum amount of money your gorilla trek will cost you is around $800. It really is just that expensive. Obviously the longer you spend in the parks near the gorillas, and the more luxury you want, the more expensive it will be.
In comparison, the cheapest gorilla trekking tours out of Kampala or Kigali start around $1,200. And those involve camping well outside the parks. A tour that meets the standards of what I describe in this post would cost you more like $1,500 for three days.
The guidance in this post will get you to your gorilla trekking trailhead. But you’ll still need to go with a guide and a small tour group to actually see the gorillas. You absolutely cannot wander around the forest around these critically endangered — and potentially quite dangerous — creatures without a guide. (If that seems unfair, just remember that if you could get to the gorillas without a guide, poachers also could.)
Where can you trek with gorillas in East Africa?
Mountain gorillas are critically endangered. In 2010, there were fewer than 500 of them left in the wild. Thanks to tourism, conservation efforts, and the engagement of local communities, there are now more than 1,000 of them. They’re definitely not out of the woods yet, but conservationists are far more optimistic about saving this remarkable species than they were just a few years ago.
This species of gorilla can only live at relatively high altitudes — above 8,000 feet — in dense forests. This restricts their habitat to four places in East Africa: Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla Park in Uganda, and Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Visitors can trek with gorillas in any of these four parks.
So why choose gorilla trekking in Uganda? The main reason is cost. Permits in Uganda cost $600, compared to $1,500 in Rwanda. The permits themselves are cheaper in DRC — $450 as of September 2019 — but the expense of getting a DRC visa and organizing transport to the park makes the experience in DRC add up to more than Uganda as a whole. Additionally, Virunga National Park occasionally closes due to security concerns.
Within Uganda, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is by far the most popular place to track gorillas. This is because there are more habituated gorilla families, and therefore more permits. The gorillas in Mgahinga Gorilla Park also have a reputation for wandering across the border to an inaccessible part of the DRC, which makes it a less appealing prospect for some travelers, but the habituated family has stayed in Uganda for years now.
The four sectors of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
If you’re going to organize your own gorilla trek in Uganda, it’s not enough to say, “I want to see the gorillas in Bwindi.” See, Bwindi covers over 125 square miles of extremely remote forest. So you don’t just need to know you’re going to Bwindi — you need to know exactly where in Bwindi you’re going.
Bwindi is divided into four sectors where you can track gorillas: Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, and Nkuringo. Buhoma is the most popular gorilla trailhead. This is partially because it has the most permits. But it’s also easy to get here from Kampala — you can even take a direct bus. It has a large variety of accommodation for all budgets. The downside is, well, more permits means more crowds.
If you’re coming from Kigali, it’s easier to trek at Ruhija, Rushaga or Nkuringo. Rushaga has very few permits, but transport is easiest. Ruhija is known for being the most beautiful trailhead and is at the highest altitude. Nkuringo is home of the famous Bwindi Backpackers — the most popular budget base for gorilla tracking while backpacking Uganda — and is famous for longer and more difficult treks (4-5 hours is common).
Each sector is anywhere from a 2 to 7 hour drive away from the other sectors. Your permit will define which sector you can trek at, and it’s not transferable to other sectors. So you need to secure a permit and know which sector you’re trekking in before you book accommodation or transport. Don’t overlook the importance of this — if you stay in the wrong sector, you’ll have to hire a private driver (at considerable cost) and wake up at 1 am to drive 6 hours in the dark.
Gorilla permits in Uganda
In order to go gorilla trekking in Uganda, you need a permit from the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA). The permit is for a specific date and location.
The Uganda gorilla permit is the most expensive part of the trekking experience. It costs $600 (going up to $700 in July 2020). There is absolutely no way to get it cheaper — if someone offers one to you for less, it’s a scam. Rainy season discounts are no longer available. The link above will walk you through how to get the permit on your own.
Your $600 buys you one of eight slots to visit a single gorilla family for one hour on the day of your trek, accompanied by a guide, ranger and sometimes researchers. Some trailheads have multiple families. For example, there are 24 permits at Ruhija each day — eight for each of three gorilla families that you can reach from the same trailhead. But your trek will not have more than eight tourists on it.
The only thing not included in your permit fee is a porter if you want to hire one. Most trekkers do, and it’s definitely smart if your shoes don’t provide good ankle support. Porters cost $15 for the day and must be paid in cash.
You will also be expected to tip your guide, scouts, researchers and porters, all separately. You should tip in Ugandan shillings rather than U.S. dollars. Budget about $20 total to distribute among your staff.
When to go on Uganda gorilla tours (or DIY)
The best time to go tracking gorillas in Uganda is during dry season. This runs from December-January and June-August.
In dry season, you may occasionally get rain and mud — but you’ll have a better chance of warm, sunny days. The walking will be easier because the vegetation in the forest thins out. You’ll also see the gorillas more easily for this reason.
The downside is you’ll have to book permits many months in advance — locals now recommend a year early. Competition for a coveted permit is fierce and you have basically zero chance of getting one last-minute.
In rainy season (February through May and September through November), you’ll have a much easier time getting your permit. But the downside is you may end up walking for eight hours in pouring rain before you find the gorillas. It’s cold, wet, and muddy. And transport to the trailheads is a lot hairier in rainy season — you may need a 4WD car.
Uganda used to offer discounts on gorilla permits during rainy season. But due to an increase in tourist numbers, they no longer do. You’ll pay $600 year-round.
How to get to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest for gorilla trekking in Uganda
If you’ve decided to forgo a tour in order to do gorilla trekking on a budget, you’ll need to think carefully about transportation. All of the gorilla trailheads in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest are in remote villages with extremely limited access to public transportation. Whatever you do, leave some buffer time to reach your trailhead — the roads are in bad shape so breakdowns are common.
Coming from Kampala, the only trailhead completely accessible by public means is Buhoma. Three buses a day leave from Kampala between 5:30 and 6:30 am. Highway Bus is the best company — book tickets as far in advance as possible. You’ll reach Buhoma around 4 pm. If you’re coming from elsewhere in southwest Uganda, you can take a matatu via Ishaka to Butugota — 17 km from Buhoma. A boda (motorcycle taxi) from Butugota costs around 15,000 shillings.
The next-easiest trailhead to reach is Rushaga. This trailhead is especially convenient if you’re coming from Kigali — it’s just a few kilometers outside Kisoro, which is right near the Rwandan border. Take a shared taxi heading toward Kabale and ask to be dropped off at Rushaga — it’s a 2 km walk or boda ride from where the taxi drops you. Alternatively, take a boda all the way from Kisoro (35 km) for around 20,000 shillings. Lodges in Rushaga offer round-trip transfers in sedan cars for around $30 USD.
Nkuringo is completely unreachable by public means, but it’s a popular trailhead for gorilla trekking on a budget due to the cheap lodges. Your best bet is to book a spot on the once-daily shuttle from Kabale through Bwindi Backpackers. This costs $50 for the vehicle, but you can usually share costs with others. Alternatively, take a (very dusty and bumpy) boda ride from Kisoro for 20,000 shillings.
Ruhija is the hardest trailhead to reach on your own. There are theoretically occasional trucks running from Kabale to the village, a few kilometers from the gorilla trekking trailhead. But I asked around a lot and locals said they only occasionally have enough passengers to leave, and most locals hitch if they’re headed in that direction. Your best bet is to hire a local driver. This costs around $100 for all your transport for three days. Email me for the name and contact info of an awesome, reliable, friendly Kabale-based driver. The biggest advantage to Ruhija is it’s the easiest place to go gorilla trekking in Uganda if you’re coming from Kigali or if you want to base yourself at Lake Bunyonyi.
Transport within Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
If you’re doing Uganda gorilla tracking without a tour, one important thing to remember is that your transport challenges don’t end when you reach your accommodation. You also need a way to get from your lodge to the trailhead. And depending on where the gorillas are on the morning of your trek, you may also need to drive a bit before you start walking.
Book transport the night before your trek that will cover you for the entire next day. You can organize a boda or special hire through your lodge. A boda costs around $15 USD, while a special hire runs more like $50.
Your driver for the day will pick you up at your lodge around 7 am and drive you to the trailhead. There you’ll check in and find out where your group will start walking from. Sometimes groups depart directly from the UWA office, but usually you’ll have to drive to reach the starting point. Then, at the end of your trek, you may need a lift back.
Some backpackers assume they can hitch a lift to the start of their gorilla trek in Bwindi. But most empty seats in cars will be filled with rangers, guides and porters, who all need to hitch lifts. There’s a small (but serious) possibility that you could miss your gorilla trek because you can’t get to the trailhead.
Additionally, don’t even think about staying overnight at a different trailhead than where you’re trekking — especially if you don’t have private transport. It’s theoretically possible to drive between Buhoma and Ruhija on the morning of your gorilla trek. But you’d have to start at 4 am and would have no room for error in the event of a breakdown. There is absolutely no public transport between trailheads within Bwindi.
What to pack for gorilla tracking
For the most enjoyable gorilla trekking safaris in Uganda, you’ll want to pack as little as possible. You have to carry your day-pack through the forest for up to 12 hours. But you still need to be prepared for all weather conditions and hazards in the jungle.
In terms of clothing, you’re best-off with lightweight, breathable, quick-drying fabrics. A long-sleeved, wool base-layer shirt and long pants designed for travel are ideal. You want to cover your arms and legs because nasty biting insects are a problem and you may touch plants that sting bare skin.
You should wear thick socks (wool is ideal) that you can pull over the bottom of your pants to protect from safari ants. The guides recommend gloves to protect from nettles as well, but I didn’t have any and it was fine.
It’ll be pretty chilly in the morning when you start out. So pack a lightweight fleece. And a rain jacket is always a good idea, even in dry season.
If you can fit them in your bag for your trip to Africa, hiking boots are ideal for gorilla trekking. This is because you’ll have to walk on hillsides without a trail, and it’s easy to roll an ankle. If you have good balance, you could get away with really good trainers.
You should of course bring a camera, but try to minimize your electronics otherwise. If it rains, your phone/four extra lenses/iPad could easily be damaged.
Finally, you need to bring a packed lunch and at least two liters of water. This may feel excessive if you reach the gorillas after half an hour, but you won’t know that until you arrive at the trailhead. You don’t want to end up on an 8-hour walk without enough food or water. There is nowhere to buy food or fill up your water bottle once you set out.
The day of your Uganda gorilla trek: Checking in
If you’re able to get any sleep at all the night before gorilla trekking in Uganda, I’d be very impressed. You’ll be so overcome with excitement, anticipation, and nerves that your 6 am wake-up call will not be a challenge.
Make sure you eat a good breakfast at your lodge — you could have to walk for up to 8 hours today. Grab your packed lunch from the staff, meet your driver, and hit the road by 7 am (assuming your staying at the trailhead).
When you arrive at the UWA check-in point, you’ll need to register. Show the staff your passport and permit confirmation. This is also when the staff split trekkers up to different gorilla families (at Buhoma and Ruhija where there are multiple families). So if you have concerns about your physical abilities, let the staff know. They try to accommodate by putting less-fit trekkers in groups that will have shorter treks to reach the gorillas.
Then, you’ll hang around for awhile as other groups arrive. You can use the restroom and chat with the other guides. Shortly before 8 am, local women will treat you to a cultural performance of song and dance for about 15 minutes.
Finally, you’ll meet your guide. They’ll give you a short safety briefing on what to expect. This also includes some information about gorilla conservation efforts and gorilla behavior. They’ll ask who wants to hire a porter or buy a walking stick.
Then, you’re on your way! If you need to drive to reach the start of the trek, you’ll meet up with your driver again for the short trip.
How difficult is gorilla trekking? What to expect from the walk
Gorilla trekking in Uganda is hard work. Even if you’re fit, and even if you only have to walk a short way to find the gorillas, you’ll be exhausted by the end of it. The walk can be anywhere from 45 minutes to 8 hours. And you have no way of knowing how long it will be until you start out.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is like no jungle or forest you’ve ever seen. The word “impenetrable” says it all. The vegetation is thick, “safari ants” try to climb into your boots, the mud is ankle-deep, and the hillsides are steep. Plus, it’s not like you have a trail to follow — you’ll be hacking your way through the vines with a machete, one step at a time. And most of the trailheads are at high altitudes.
You’ll start walking behind your guide, who will clear a makeshift path. At the beginning of my trek from Ruhija, we walked through a field with waist-high grass covering ankle-deep mud — it was a total mess (and this was dry season!). Everyone who didn’t have a porter to help them ended up sliding halfway down the hill on their butts. Once we got under cover of the forest, it didn’t get any easier. We had to climb over logs and pull ourselves up a steep slope on our hands and knees — only to discover that we actually needed to go back down two minutes later.
The whole time, your guide has radio contact with the scouts who departed hours earlier to locate the gorillas. The scouts give directions, and they shout through the forest to help your guide connect with them.
Once you get close enough to the gorillas, your guide will stop you. You must leave your bag, walking stick, and anything else besides your camera behind at this point. Listen closely to the final safety instructions. Then, proceed behind your guide — you’re moments away from your first gorilla encounter.
One hour with mountain gorillas: How to get the most out of your visit
We heard them before we saw them. A 350-pound silverback beating his chest and vocalizing. Branches breaking, shrubs rustling. Then, out of nowhere, a female gorilla bolted out of the forest straight into our path — gave us a terrorized/terrorizing look — and scrambled down the hillside into an open field. We rushed to follow her. When we reached the field, we found ourselves surrounded by 12 mountain gorillas having breakfast.
If you’re extremely lucky, you’ll have an experience like I did — a sunny day where the gorillas stay in an exposed area the entire time. Usually, though, you’ll encounter them under the dark forest cover. The light is tricky for getting good photos. (Set your camera in advance to an ISO of 800.) And the shy members of the family may hide behind vegetation.
But no matter what, the experience is absolutely indescribable. You’ll see the gorillas sit around and eat, interact with each other, interact with you, and interact with their environment. (The most magical moment of my hour was when a tiny black colobus monkey swung through the trees above us — prompting the entire gorilla family to get scared.) The sense of mutual recognition is profound.
Don’t be surprised if the gorillas come terrifyingly close — listen to the scouts’ and guides’ instructions very carefully. At one point a silverback decided to walk up behind me and came within inches of me before I could move away. Then he sat down directly in front of me, grabbed some leaves, shoved them in his mouth, and stared at me. The scout next to me instructed me not to move for several minutes until I could slowly back away.
Tourists are only allowed to spend a maximum of one hour in the company of a gorilla family. During that hour, you cannot eat, drink, or go to the bathroom. Be extremely careful not to cough or sneeze. You should speak in a very low voice and avoid sudden movements. You can’t use flash on your camera. And — even though the gorillas usually break this rule — you’re supposed to stay at least 3 meters away from them.
Whatever you do, don’t spend your entire time gorilla trekking in Uganda watching these incredible creatures through the lens of your camera. Snap the photos you want, but then put the camera away and simply enjoy the experience. You’ll get so much more out of it.
The gorillas seem to know when your hour is over. After about 55 minutes, they get a bit more antsy and start migrating further into the bush. At that point, the scouts will round everybody up to go. You’ll collect your bags, say goodbye to the researchers, and start the walk back to the UWA headquarters.
Where to stay during your Uganda gorilla safari on a budget
There is no avoiding it — Bwindi Impenetrable Forest accommodation is insanely expensive compared to everywhere else in Uganda. The good news: You can get incredible value for money at some of the family-run lodges.
All four gorilla trekking places in Bwindi have campgrounds where you can stay for around $50 a night full-board. The biggest problem is camping in Bwindi is very cold, so make sure you have a four-season sleeping bag if you’re going to attempt this. Bwindi Backpackers at Nkuringo is the most popular option.
But since you’re already shelling out a small fortune for your gorilla tour, I recommend choosing a budget lodge instead. You’ll find lots of options that have just 3-5 rooms, super personal service, and very high standards for under $100 a night full-board.
I stayed at the lovely Broadbill Forest Camp for gorilla trekking at Ruhija. For around $90 a night, I got my own private permanent tent, with a bathroom with hot water inside and a gorgeous view of the forest. The meals were outstanding. But the best part was the service — Sharon, the host, took me on several community and wildlife walks during my two nights there. The staff are all avid birdwatchers and experts at finding the elusive chameleons that live in the area. It was all included in the price of the lodge. They also arranged my transportation, for which I paid $100 for a private driver for three days. (Taking bodas everywhere would have cost me around $75 and would have been much more stressful.)
Normally I wouldn’t even consider paying this much for accommodation. But since camping would have been freezing and uncomfortable for more than half the price, it was well worth it.
My total budget for gorilla trekking in Uganda – is gorilla trekking worth it?
To give you an idea of exactly what you’ll pay for your Uganda gorilla trek, here’s a list of all of my expenses:
Gorilla permit: $600
Lodge in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest for two nights (Broadbill Forest Camp): $180 including all meals
Transport (3 days with a private driver from Kabale to Lake Bunyonyi): $100
Snacks: 5,000 shillings
Tip for my scout: 10,000 shillings
Tips for dancers and musicians: 5,000 shillings
Tip for researchers on gorilla trek: 40,000
Tip for my gorilla tracking guide: 50,000
Total budget for my three-day Uganda gorilla safari: $905
I could have shaved about $100 off my total expenses by using bodas instead of a driver, camping instead of staying at a lodge, and/or being less generous with my tips for the gorilla trekking guides and scouts. But I decided to splurge a bit for convenience and comfort, and I was having such a good time that I didn’t want to short-change the staff who were making it possible.
The entire experience felt more mid-range than like a true backpacking experience. So compared to tours that would give you a similar standard of travel, I saved about $600. I spent about the same as the absolutely cheapest tours available where I would have had to camp well outside the forest and drive all the way into the park on the morning of my trek.
Gorilla safaris in Uganda are not a cheap activity by any means — but I’ve never met anyone who regretted splurging on it. I hope this post helps you plan your own gorilla trek in this incredible country!
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Thank you for taking the time to creating such a detailed, resource-filled and informative guide! It sounds like an experience worth every penny.
Thanks so much Felicia! Yep, absolutely worth every penny :).