Perhentian Islands Diving and Relaxation: Malaysia’s best island

The Perhentian Islands in Malaysia are home to some of the world’s best beaches. I will spend the rest of my life looking for somewhere to match Long Beach on Perhentian Kecil — and I’ll probably never find it. But these islands aren’t just about finding the shade of a palm tree and curling up with a good book. They also have some of the best diving in Southeast Asia. Better yet — Perhentian Islands diving is incredibly cheap!

 

In this post, I’ll walk you through what to expect from a Perhentian Islands diving trip, what else to do on the islands, where to stay, what to eat, and how to get there. Read on for my complete guide to the Perhentians — the best Malaysian islands to visit!

 

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When to plan your Perhentian Islands diving adventure

 

 

The Perhentian Islands are a set of small islands 45 minutes by speedboat off the coast of Kuala Besut — a seaside town in eastern peninsular Malaysia.

 

Given their relatively remote location in the eastern part of the country, the Perhentians experience a different monsoon season from the rest of peninsular Malaysia — October through February/March. You should avoid planning a Perhentian Islands diving trip during this time. The islands may be completely inaccessible if the seas are rough, and most accommodation will be closed.

 

If you can get to Pulau Perhentian Kecil in late March, this may be the best time to visit. Crowds are very few, most of the bigger hotels are still closed, but dive shops and backpacker bungalows are open. You could be one of just a handful of people at your dive sites!

 

Don’t want to take any chances with the weather? Visit between April and August. You’ll get bright, sunny days and clear, calm seas.

 

Which island?

 

 

Perhentian Islands diving trips leave from either of the main islands — Besar (“big”) or Kecil (“little”). Perhentian Besar is more resort-y, expensive, and package tourism-oriented. Perhentian Kecil retains more of a backpacker vibe.

 

I highly recommend staying on Perhentian Kecil when you visit the islands. It’s the kind of place where you can still get a private beach bungalow with cold-water showers and limited electricity for $5 a night. Jungle paths connect the beaches and offer plenty of exploring when you’re not diving. And the island’s dive shops are top-notch.

 

Getting to Pulau Perhentian Kecil

 

 

Kota Bharu is the most convenient town to base yourself before catching a ferry to the Perhentian Islands. It’s a laid-back small city with enough to do to entertain yourself for a day. It also has Malaysia’s best night market, which is refreshingly non-touristic. Stay at Zeck’s Traveler’s Inn for the night before continuing on to the islands.

 

Then, you’ll need to get to Kuala Besut, the jetty town. Direct buses run from Kota Bharu. They take two hours, cost 6 ringgits, and they’ll drop you right at the jetty. As soon as you get off the bus, you’ll be barraged by boat hawkers. Keep your cool and go into the building with a ticket window to buy your ticket — it should cost 35 ringgits. Don’t pay more. If you know when you want to leave, you can save a bit of money by buying a round-trip ticket for 70 ringgits.

 

The boat employed for this 45-minute trip through the open ocean is a tiny fifteen-person speedboat which the driver operates with reckless abandon. Prepare to get very, very wet (and your luggage will get even wetter). It can be a bumpy ride in anything but perfect weather.

 

Boats stop first at Perhentian Besar before continuing on to Perhentian Kecil, where they drop off at Coral Bay Beach.

 

Choosing a Perhentian Islands diving shop

 

 

The Perhentian Islands are a great diving destination if you like warm tropical waters and abundant sea life. Diving here is also insanely cheap. But the standards of service vary greatly between shops.

 

I highly recommend Quiver Divers for your Perhentian Islands diving experience. They have a shop directly on Coral Bay. The owners and the divemasters are all great, and the boat captains are committed to a high safety standard. The equipment is also top-notch. Dives cost between $30 and $40, depending on how many you book, with all equipment included.

 

Quiver Divers operates differently from many other dive shops around the world. Instead of sending you out for a two-tank dive all at once, it does single-tank early-morning dives, and additional single-tank dives in the afternoon. This is great for maximizing bottom time, since surface intervals are much longer than normal. It also means you can affordably dive on several consecutive days.

 

Dive sites near Pulau Perhentian Kecil

 

 

The seas around Pulau Perhentian Kecil are teeming with coral, tropical fish, and even sharks. Beginners and experienced divers alike will find exciting dive sites.

 

Unquestionably the two best sites for marine life are Temple of the Sea and Tiger Rock. Temple of the Sea is a pinnacle dive that’s great whether you descend to 10 meters or 25 meters. It has no current, just a low-key surge. You are almost guaranteed to see sea turtles here, and during a single dive at this site, I saw three sharks. Tiger Rock is deeper and has a couple fun swim-throughs. It’s ideal for seeing large fish (like barracuda and huge grouper), and occasionally leopard sharks.

 

For impressive coral formations, head instead to Sail Rock and D’Lagoon. You’re less likely to see sharks or turtles at these sites, but you’ll still get plenty of fish — from clownfish to the annoyingly aggressive triggerfish.

 

The Perhentians also have a couple good wreck dive sites. Best in show is Sugar Wreck, and at just 18 meters, it’s accessible to divers of all levels. Vietnamese Wreck (actually an American ship) is another good option, but it has less marine life and is quite a bit deeper.

 

No matter which dive sites you choose, you’ll be stunned by the visibility you get during Perhentian Islands diving. 10+ meters is typical, and often you can see even further. The water is also gloriously warm — you’ll only need a shortie wetsuit, if you need one at all.

 

Other things to do on the Perhentian Islands

 

 

Diving may be the highlight of your trip here, but it’s not the only thing to do. The laid-back vibe of these islands is addictive, so be sure to stay a couple extra days after you’re done with your Perhentian Islands diving just to hang out and explore.

 

The two best beaches on Pulau Perhentian Kecil are Long Beach and Coral Bay. Really, nothing compares to Long Beach, which may be the world’s most beautiful stretch of sand. Come in late March — the end of monsoon season — and you’ll have it all to yourself. Coral Bay is also very beautiful, but the coral that forms its “sand” makes it slightly less appealing.

 

Additionally, Pulau Perhentian Kecil has a handful of fun, easy, short hiking paths. You can walk to a half-dozen gorgeous beaches in less than an hour. Turtle Bay is a popular option, but perhaps the most beautiful beach is at the northern end of the island — Teluk Kerma. You can snorkel from most beaches — all the hotels and restaurants will rent you some gear.

 

Want to explore further afield? Hire a longtail boat. For 10-30 ringgits, you can get to any of the beaches on either island, or even between islands. Solo travelers will save money by finding a boat buddy.

 

Where to stay and eat on Pulau Perhentian Kecil

 

 

While the islands now have a healthy number of resorts and nicer hotels, beach bungalows are still the norm for Perhentian Islands accommodation — especially on Pulau Perhentian Kecil. They’re rebuilt at the beginning of each season (and torn down at the end), so don’t have too high expectations of what you’ll get.

 

The best bungalows cost less than $10 a night for a medium-sized, fan-cooled room with a private bathroom. They may only have electricity in the mornings and evenings (read: no WiFi), and invariably have cold-water showers, but they also usually come with nice porches and your very own hammock in the sand. My favorite Perhentian Islands accommodation is Fatima Chalet on Coral Bay Beach, which costs $8 a night and still has no reliable online presence.

 

The food selection is limited and expensive, but the food is really good. Many of the restaurants do barbecues on the beach every evening, with fresh-caught fish, for about $5. Alternatively, order Western or Malay staples for $2-$5. The cheapest meals are the roti canai, which cost 3 ringgits here.

 

Beer will totally destroy your budget on the Perhentian Islands. It has to be shipped over from the mainland, so it’s at least $3 a bottle. Long Beach has an active party scene during high season. Coral Bay is much more low-key.

 

All in all, a Perhentian Islands diving trip will surely satisfy both beach bums and adventure lovers. Don’t miss this incredible corner of eastern Malaysia — you may never find beaches this perfect, or diving that’s so good for so cheap, ever again.

 

What’s your favorite Southeast Asian island for diving and beaches? Leave a comment and let me know!

 

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