Vietnam to Laos the hard way: How to travel from Sapa to Luang Prabang

A typical scene on the Nam Ou river as you travel from Vietnam to Laos

Southeast Asia is the ideal destination for first-time backpackers. The food is awesome, you can enjoy nature, cities and beaches, and — above all else — it’s easy. You can take direct buses from capital to capital. It can even leave you feeling like you’re missing out on some of the genuine adventure of backpacking. So if you want to get more off the beaten path and see the Southeast Asia of 50 years ago, try crossing the remote Tay Trang border from Vietnam to Laos.

It is possible to cross the Vietnam-Laos border the easy way on a direct bus from Hanoi to Luang Prabang. But the journey is more than 24 hours long. So when I learned there was an alternative that would allow me to get off the beaten path in northeast Laos, I jumped at the chance.

The route I outline in this post is especially useful if you’re ending your Vietnam trip with trekking in Sapa. You probably don’t want to backtrack all the way to Hanoi and then hop on another long bus trip. With this itinerary, you can continue directly from Sapa to Laos.

In this post, I’ll provide you with step-by-step instructions for taking on this remote border crossing. I’m going to cover the route in the direction of Vietnam-Laos, because that’s how I did it. If you’re going from Laos to Vietnam, simply reverse these instructions. Let’s get started!

Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you decide to purchase through these links, I receive a percentage of the sale at no additional cost to you, which helps me keep this site up and running.

How long does this Vietnam to Laos border crossing take?

Boats ply the Nam Ou to take you from Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw.
Travel from Laos to Vietnam, and vice versa, is mostly by riverboat — so it takes time.

First thing’s first — before we dive into the details, you need to know if you have enough time to undertake this journey.

The minimum amount of time you need to use the Tay Trang border crossing is four days — two on the Vietnam side, and two on the Laos side. However, this would leave you with a very rushed itinerary.

It’s far more relaxed and enjoyable to extend the trip to 5-7 days. This will allow you to explore some of the villages in northern Laos before you reach busy Luang Prabang.

If you’re doing the journey in the other direction, you must allow a minimum of five days — six would be better. This is because boats on the northeast section of the river don’t run unless they have enough passengers. You could get stuck for 2-3 days waiting for a boat to depart. This could lead to pricey visa overstay fees if you’re not careful.

Visa requirements in both directions

Organize your Vietnam visa in Luang Prabang.
If you’re going from Laos to Vietnam, arrange your Vietnamese visa in Luang Prabang before your journey.

Because the Tay Trang border crossing is fairly remote and sees few travelers, you need to make sure your visa house is in order before you venture to the border.

Going from Vietnam to Laos, you can get a 30-day Laos visa on arrival. This costs between $30 and $42 depending on nationality. Check your exact visa fees here.

At this time, you must pay in U.S. dollars for your visa. E-visas for Laos are not accepted at this border crossing. You need 2 passport photos (you can get them in Dien Bien Phu before you cross the border).

On the Vietnam side, you must arrange your Vietnamese visa in advance. This is best done at the embassy in Luang Prabang. Allow at least two days for processing. E-visas for Vietnam are not accepted at this border crossing as of November 2019. But the Vietnamese visa situation changes constantly, so check right before you go.

If you don’t sort out your visas correctly in advance, you may be denied entry. This is especially risky if you’re going into Vietnam. If you aren’t allowed in, you’ll be stranded at the border — aside from the one daily direct bus, no other transport takes this route.

See also  Hiking Ijen: Miners, sulfur and sore legs

How to get to Laos from Vietnam

The road to Dien Bien Phu runs through the mountains.
The bus from Vietnam to Laos first goes to Dien Bien Phu. The scenery is breathtaking.

Step One: Sapa to Dien Bien Phu

The first step of this Vietnam-Laos border crossing is to travel from Sapa to Dien Bien Phu in northern Vietnam. You’ll need to spend the night in Dien Bien Phu before entering Laos the next day.

Two buses a day cover the Sapa-Dien Bien Phu route — a daytime option or a night sleeper bus. The daytime bus is a minivan. Either way, it costs 275,000 dong and takes about 12 hours (although the bus companies swear it will be faster).

I’d highly recommend the daytime bus for this route. For one, the scenery is breathtaking. But you’re also in serious mountains up here, and Vietnam’s roads aren’t exactly known for being the world’s safest.

The daytime minivan is reasonably comfortable. It stops a couple times for coffee/lunch/comfort breaks. It departs at 7 am. Book tickets a day in advance through your hostel. Skip the “bus station transfer” — they’ll pick you up at 5:30 am and you’ll just end up sitting around the bus station for an hour and a half. The bus station is an easy 5-minute walk from town.

Where to stay in Dien Bien Phu: Honestly, all the hotels here suck. I tried three different places and wasn’t particularly happy with any of them, but Duc Than Guesthouse is mostly acceptable.

Where to eat in Dien Bien Phu: Pha Din Cafe and Desserts has a beautiful garden and great cappuccinos. Pho stalls set up around the market in the morning.

Extend your stay: Dien Bien Phu is where the Vietnamese fought off the French in the early days of the Vietnam War. Check out the museum and walk up to the top of A1 Hill.

Step two: Dien Bien Phu to Muang Khua

Dien Bien Phu isn't the most exciting town, but it has a nice market.
The Laos to Vietnam bus (or Vietnam to Laos bus) runs through Dien Bien Phu.

Today you’ll set off for Laos! Make sure you’ve got your passport photos, and arm yourself with a healthy dose of patience. You’re leaving the most chaotic country in Southeast Asia for the most slow-paced one.

The bus to Laos from Dien Bien Phu runs once a day at 5:30 am. Make sure you buy your ticket the day before, and get to the bus station by 5 am. Tickets cost 150,000 dong. It’s a two-hour ride to the border through remote mountain scenery.

The bus unloads at the border and you get stamped out of Vietnam quickly. Money changers might low-key hassle you, but you’ll get better rates if you wait until you arrive in Muang Khua.

Laos is just on the other side of the building. In contrast to the hassle and hustle to get stamped out of Vietnam, it takes nearly two hours for the border officials to issue visas to everyone on the bus. They take their time, and there’s no rushing them.

Finally, once your entire bus has completed the Vietnam to Laos border formalities, you’ll get back on the bus and begin the treacherous overland journey to Muang Khua. The road is muddy and bumpy, the driver crawls along at a snail’s pace, and the lunch stop takes almost two hours — but I promise, it’s all part of the charm. You’ll arrive around 3 pm.

Where to stay in Muang Khua: Chaleunsuk Guesthouse is a clean and friendly choice.

Where to eat in Muang Khua: Sabaidee Restaurant is a decent option. They have cold beers.

Where to change money in Muang Khua: Walk up the hill from the boat landing to the first intersection in town. You’ll see a lady operating a street stall selling pots and pans. Just ask her if you can buy kip and she’ll give you a fantastic exchange rate. Yes, this is how Laos works.

See also  Trekking in Luang Namtha: The best jungle trek in Laos

Extend your stay: Muang Khua doesn’t have many attractions, but it’s a charming little village. Check out the local wat (temple) and hike around the surrounding areas.

Step three: Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi Neua

The boat journey through northeastern Laos is gorgeous.
You’ll use a longtail boat to travel from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi.

Next up is the best part of the entire journey from Vietnam to Laos. You get to ride on a riverboat through idyllic limestone scenery down the Nam Ou river to reach Muang Ngoi Neua. Along the way, you’ll get a glimpse of rural Laos that few travelers see. Fishermen hauling in the catch of the day. Kids playing in the river. Families doing their laundry. And of course, the landscapes are stunning.

The only problem? Boats from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi Neua only leave when there are enough passengers. If you’re traveling in low season, that might mean you have to wait 2-3 days for a boat to leave.

The boat trip isn’t exactly cheap — you’ll pay 110,000 kip. And it takes over four hours. So if you’re trying to get all the way to Muang Ngoi in a day, it’ll be a very long day. Expect to arrive around 7 pm.

Where to stay in Muang Ngoi Neua: A small cluster of guesthouses lines the main road. You can find a room for 10,000 kip if you’re happy with a bucket shower. It’s one of the best deals in Laos.

Where to eat in Muang Ngoi Neua: The two guesthouses right at the top of the hill from the boat dock charge 20,000 kip for huge, delicious buffets of Western and Lao food. Bee Tree Food & Bar has lovely river views from the deck.

How to pronounce Muang Ngoi Neua: First, everyone calls it “Muang Ngoi” (drop the Neua). You’ll be understood if you ignore the “g” in “Ngoi” — i.e. “Moo-ang Noy”.

Extend your stay: Muang Ngoi was one of my favorite places in Laos, and it’s definitely worth spending 2-3 nights here. Walk left out of town from the boat dock for about a kilometer and you’ll find some cool caves to explore (bring a torch). In the other direction, paths through the rice paddies bring you to stunning river views and small villages worth exploring. In high season you can also go tubing and kayaking on the river, but the adventure companies shut down in low season.

Step four: Muang Ngoi Neua to Nong Khiaw

Flights from Vietnam to Laos may be faster, but you miss out on all this scenery.
There’s nothing quite like a river town in Laos.

If you can tear yourself away from the ridiculously beautiful scenery of Muang Ngoi, the next step in your journey is to continue up the river to Nong Khiaw.

The best way to get to Nong Khiaw is to continue by boat. Public boats cost just 20,000 kip. They depart around 9 am every day, but check with your guesthouse for current departure times.

Muang Ngoi also has a road now, but it’s a bad one and public transport doesn’t cover it yet. If you want to hire a taxi driver, you could presumably use overland travel to get to Nong Khiaw, but it would be pricey and you’d miss out on the beautiful boat trip.

It’s only about a one-hour boat ride to Nong Khiaw. So you could enjoy the short travel day and partake in some of the additional activities here, or skip to step five and go straight through to Luang Prabang today.

Where to stay in Nong Khiaw: Most guesthouses are across the river from Nong Khiaw proper. This town has my favorite guesthouse I’ve ever stayed in — Nam Houn Guesthouse. It doesn’t look like much from the main road, but the riverside bungalows are magical (and surprisingly luxurious). You’ll pay around 70,000 kip.

See also  Central Thailand Itinerary: One week

Where to eat in Nong Khiaw: Alex Restaurant is awesome — the staff are incredibly friendly. Q Bar and Restaurant is lovely. There are lots of decent Indian places.

Extend your stay: In addition to all the usual river activities and hiking, Nong Khiaw has one of the best caves in Laos. Tham Pha Thok is about 2 km out of town on the main road. This is where a large community of Pathet Lao hid during the Secret War — you can still see relics of their presence in the form of abandoned cookware, makeshift furniture and more. Entry costs 10,000 kip.

Step five: Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang

After a long five-day journey, you'll finally arrive in beautiful Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang is the last stop on your journey from Vietnam. It’s worth the travel time!

Finally, you’re about to arrive in Luang Prabang — the greatest city in Asia. This is by far the easiest travel day of your Vietnam-Laos journey.

All you have to do is go to the bus station anytime between 9 and 11 am and hop on a bus. Prices range from 40-55,000 kip depending on service level. The journey takes around 4 hours on good roads.

You’ll arrive at the Northern Bus Station in Luang Prabang. From here, it’s a quick 20,000-kip ride on a sorngthaew into the city.

Where to stay in Luang Prabang: It’s basic, but you won’t find better value for money than Paphai Guesthouse.

Where to eat in Luang PrabangSo many places, but here I’ll specifically highlight JoMa Bakery. Because it’s my favorite cafe on the planet. (Did I mention how much I love Laos yet??)

Extend your stay: Obviously you’re going to want to stay in Luang Prabang as long as possible — at least three days. Check out my Luang Prabang itinerary for some ideas.

Alternative route: Instead of going directly to Luang Prabang, divert to the north to go trekking in the Nam Ha Protected Area. You can then circle back to Luang Prabang after a couple days in the jungle.

Final thoughts/tips for when you travel from Vietnam to Laos

A bridge over the Nam Ou River in Luang Prabang.
You’ll get so used to river-town life that Luang Prabang will suddenly feel like a huge city!
  • After you leave Dien Bien Phu, you won’t see another ATM until Luang Prabang. Stock up on cash in Dien Bien Phu — enough to get stuck in Muang Khua for three days awaiting a boat.
  • Accommodation and food along this route is more basic than elsewhere in Southeast Asia. You’ll have bamboo walls, squat toilets and bucket showers. Most guesthouses in Muang Ngoi only turn on the electricity for two hours each evening. Vegetarians may have a hard time finding things they can eat.
  • WiFi is still pretty much nonexistent in this part of Laos, at least until you reach Nong Khiaw.
  • Most people in northeast Laos speak very limited English. A Lao phrasebook comes in handy.
  • Muang Khua, Muang Ngoi, and Nong Khiaw have a low-key traveler vibe but very few tourists. Don’t expect the kind of travel infrastructure you find in Thailand or elsewhere in Vietnam. The closest thing to a “tourist map” of Muang Ngoi, for example, is a sketch drawing on a sign in one of the restaurants in town. But if you ask locals what’s cool, they’ll show you plenty of hidden gems.
  • If you really get stuck on the river, you can charter a private boat. It’ll cost a fortune.
  • It’s hard to slow down after you’ve been in Vietnam for awhile. But remember: Laos is much more relaxed. Don’t assume everyone is trying to scam you, ease up on the bargaining, be patient with people, and smile and say “sabaidee” to everyone. You’ll enjoy it so much more.

Like this post? Pin it!

Want to get off the beaten path in Southeast Asia? Try traveling overland from Vietnam to Laos via the remote Tay Trang border crossing. You'll pass through Dien Bien Phu, Muang Khua, Muang Ngoi Neua, and Nong Khiaw before reaching Luang Prabang. You can go river tubing, hiking, and caving along the way. Click to learn more... #laos #travel

Read more about Laos here

0 0 votes
Article Rating
Subscribe
Notify of
guest

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

6 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Josy A
4 years ago

Goodness what a gorgeous adventure!
I love the look of everything beyond Dien Bien Phu! Those views from Muang Ngoi look amazing and the temple in Luang Prabang is ridiculously pretty!

It must have been so nice to take it slowly and relax a bit after your more hectic travels!!

Krystianna
4 years ago

Great post! I found everything you said to be extremely helpful, so I’m definitely pinning this for later. I’ve always wanted to visit Vietnam. Also, your photos are amazing!

Lorraine Dredge
Lorraine Dredge
1 year ago

How safe is this route for a solo female traveler?

6
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x