Ecuador is heaven for adventure-lovers. From high-altitude hikes to mountain bike trips past waterfalls, you’ll never have to look far to get an adrenaline rush. But perhaps the best adventure of all is white water rafting in Ecuador.
A half-dozen rivers snake through the Ecuadoran Amazon jungle and make up a playground for thrill-seekers backpacking Ecuador. You can find everything from slow meanders down barely-noticeable white water to multi-day trips through class 5 rapids.
The best base for white water rafting in Ecuador is Tena. It’s one of the largest cities in the Amazon, easily accessible from Baños and Quito. But it’s a short drive away from some pretty remote corners of jungle. If you want to get the most of Ecuador scenery along with your serious white water, Tena is the place to do it.
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White water rafting in Ecuador on the Jatunyacu River with River People
I went white water rafting in Ecuador with River People. The company’s standards are very high and they’re about the same price as others. I paid for my trip just like you would — in fact, this blog wasn’t even live when I went.
River People Ecuador offers one-day rafting trips throughout the jungle around Tena. Its most popular trip is Jatunyacu River rafting — a tributary to the Amazon. The streams that feed it originate atop the Cotopaxi Volcano. The section of river you’ll raft on covers class III+ white water. You’ll spend about four hours on the river, but with a lunch break and travel time, the trip takes most of a day.
The one-day Jatunyacu River rafting trip costs $65 per person. Expect to be in a group of 4-6 people, with an English-speaking guide. White water rafting trips leave every day that there are enough people.
If you’re after an even bigger adventure, the best white water rafting in Ecuador is said to be the two-day trip on the Hollin River. It’s only available from September through February.
Part one: Getting to the put-in spot
My day of white water rafting in Ecuador began around 8 am. I met Poncho, my guide, and my fellow rafters at the River People Ecuador office in the Tena town center. We loaded our gear into a pick-up truck and then we were off!
We drove out of town, then turned onto a dusty dirt road. It was a bumpy 20 km ride through increasingly remote jungle. Then, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, the truck stopped — we had arrived at the put-in spot. We left our day-packs with dry clothes, phones, and anything else not waterproof in the truck.
Poncho handed out life jackets and helmets to everyone. He explained how to steer the raft, what different paddle strokes do, and what to do if we fell out or the raft flipped. I’d been white water rafting before, in the U.S., and I have to say the safety briefing while white water rafting in Ecuador was better than what I got back at home. We even had an emergency kayaker with our group to help rescue anyone who fell out of the raft (and as a bonus, he was able to take photos for us).
Then, once everyone’s questions were answered, we dragged the raft down the river bank and hopped in. Everyone chose a spot based on their experience and comfort level with rafting. Poncho took his place at the back, where most of the real control really comes from. And then we were off!
Part two: The first few rapids
The first part of the white water trip was calm. Poncho had us practice different maneuvers, including jumping to one side of the boat to help balance and ducking down under the sides.
We hit the first rapid after about fifteen minutes. It was a solid Class III — enough to get the adrenaline pumping, but still well within everyone’s comfort level. After the rapid was a calmer pool where we could all catch our breath and relax for a few minutes.
Then came the second rapid. This was the biggest one of the entire trip, and it was intense. Poncho said during dry season it’s class III, but since there had been so much rain recently it had been upgraded to class IV.
As we approached the rapid, we could see the huge elevation drop it encompassed. At a few points, we’d have to pass through narrow rock openings and go down mini-waterfalls. Poncho warned everyone to hang on tight and gave another reminder of what to do if we flipped. Then, before we knew it, we were off.
Everything went smoothly for the first part of the rapid. But then, as we tried to pass through a narrow passage, we got stuck. Like, really stuck. The raft went almost completely vertical and we were on the verge of flipping. But somehow, just at the last minute, Poncho managed to get us out and around the side. Everybody miraculously stayed on the raft.
After we had cleared the rapid and done the mandatory relief-celebratory high-fives, we turned around to watch the group behind us. Sure enough, at the same spot we’d gotten stuck, they did too — but they were less lucky than we were. Their raft flipped and the whole group had to swim their way out of the rapids.
After we survived that rapid, the next few felt like nothing. There were a few other tough spots. We tried “surfing” the rapids a couple times (holding ourselves in one spot while the water rushes underneath the raft), with limited success. Poncho let everyone who wanted to take turns riding on the front of the boat, which led to lots of falling out.
In between rapids, there were long quieter stretches where we could soak up the setting. The jungle is so green. Rolling hills covered in palm trees far off into the distance. We saw a few exotic bird species (if you’re lucky, you could see a toucan) and lots of rare tropical plant life.
Part three: Stopping for lunch and the end of the rafting trip
After navigating half a dozen rapids and being on the river for almost three hours, we were all hot and starving. So we pulled over in a small village to enjoy our lunch.
The setting was perfect. Along the riverbank, we met men panning for gold. A group of kids came running out of the jungle to hang out with us, and showed us how to find “jungle candy” (a sweet fruit).
Even better, the food was really good — especially considering it was carried in on a white water raft! We had a feast of pasta salad, veggies, and fresh fruit, with some biscuits for dessert. There was more food than we could eat. River People Ecuador also provided filtered water.
After lunch, we got back in the boat and started riding the rapids once again. The post-lunch section is through more developed areas. We saw more villages and more people. Plus, the rapids were much less intense — there was one Class III, but it was mostly smaller rapids.
Finally, we passed under the last bridge, rowed up to the river bank, and hopped out. Our truck was waiting for us. We changed into dry clothes while Poncho packed up the raft and the gear, and then we drove the 15 minutes back to Tena.
What to bring white water rafting in Ecuador
If you visit Tena as part of your Ecuador trip, you’ll need slightly different gear than what you need in the Andes.
First, the white water rafting trips go through the jungle. It’s hot and humid, even at night. Be sure to pack some lightweight, loose clothing.
Second, it’s best to wear more than just a swimsuit while white water rafting. Bring a long-sleeved tee shirt and a pair of shorts that you don’t mind getting soaked on the river.
Third, definitely bring high SPF sunscreen when white water rafting in Ecuador. You won’t have any access to shade once you’re on the river. Trust me, I got one of the worst sunburns of my life on my rafting trip!
Finally, pack a travel towel in your day-pack to leave in the truck with your change of clothes. You’ll want to dry off before driving back to Tena.
Tena: The perfect base for white water rafting in Ecuador
Tena is a charming small city in the Amazon rainforest. It’s the capital of its province, but it still feels small and low-key.
Tena is also a small-scale hub for travelers seeking Ecuador adventure tours. It’s nothing like Baños — you’ll only see a handful of other gringos here — but it has a few adventure tour companies and community-oriented guides. Tena Ecuador tours include jungle trips and whitewater rafting in the Amazon.
How to get to Tena
Tena is most conveniently accessed from Baños — it’s four hours by bus. Tickets cost around $4, and buses leave a few times and hour. They all pass through Puyo as well.
From further afield, you can get to and from Ambato, Latacunga, and Quito directly. The most direct Quito to Tena bus takes 6 hours. Some buses take a longer, 7-8 hour route through Baños and Latacunga, so if you’re not getting off at an intermediary point be sure to ask the driver which route they’re taking.
Where to stay in Tena
Tena sees less backpackers than other places in Ecuador, so the hotels and hostels are shorter on travel amenities. Still, you can easily find a clean and comfortable room for a low price. Pretty much all guesthouses have outdoor space with hammocks and free WiFi, but cold-water showers are the norm at the budget end of the spectrum.
Most backpackers stay in either Pakay Hostel or Hostal Zumag Sisa. Both have $12 private rooms. They’re both central, clean and safe.
Where to eat in Tena
The cheapest place to get a meal in town is Chuquitos — it offers standard Ecuadoran fare in an open-air dining room for around $3 a plate. It’s up a long driveway coming off the main road near Hostal La Posada.
If you’re after Western food, Cafe Tortuga is a good bet. The set breakfasts are a good deal. It’s also a good meeting place for travelers, so if you need to form a group for white water rafting or a jungle tour, check here.
A handful of pizzerias line the street near the river. The best of the bunch is Pizzeria Bella Selva. A pizza will run you $4-6.
Overall, white water rafting in Ecuador is one of the best adventures you can have in South America. If you’re an adrenaline junkie, don’t miss out during your trip to Ecuador!
Have you ever been white water rafting Ecuador or elsewhere? Where did you do it? Leave a comment!
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