Bhaktapur Durbar Square and Beyond

The Kathmandu Valley is the heart of Newari culture and tradition. The medieval architecture is amazing. The entire area is dotted with stunning temples. The history seeps from small alleyways and shops peddling traditional crafts. Most travelers in Nepal learn about the Newaris in Kathmandu itself. Some venture out to Patan. But few people make it to the third, and arguably most beautiful, of the ancient Newari cities — Bhaktapur. Still, a day trip to Bhaktapur Durbar Square and the surrounding city is not to be missed when you’re backpacking in Nepal.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can easily see it and all the other major Bhaktapur attractions in a single day. Leave Kathmandu around 8 am and you’ll be back by 4 pm.

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About Bhaktapur: History, ancient and modern

The history of Bhaktapur starts in the 12th century, when it was founded by King Ananda Malla. It became a capital city in the 15th century, and maintained its prominence through the 1800’s.

The city’s claim to fame was it was an important trading center. Caravans running to and from Tibet would stop here. As trade routes shifted, the city saw some decline. Then, major earthquake in the early 20th century further reduced its status.

Political decline aside, Bhaktapur has always been an important religious center and still is today. Its nickname is “city of devotees,” and it has more temples per foot than the other major Kathmandu Valley royal cities.

Tragically, the 2015 earthquake severely damaged many of the traditional buildings. Reports of the devastation have led tourist numbers to plummet in recent years. Don’t let that deter you from doing a Bhaktapur day trip — the reality is, Bhaktapur Durbar Square is still spectacular, the town has largely been restored, and the crowds are far less than you’ll encounter in Patan and Kathmandu.

If you want to learn more about Bhaktapur and its history, you can hire a guide from the tourist office — or one of the freelancers that works Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Prices run about $20/hour.

What to see in Bhaktapur Durbar Square

The collection of ancient temples and palaces at Bhaktapur Durbar Square is nothing short of impressive. The square spans a large area in the center of the city.

The most impressive piece of architecture in the square is the famous Golden Gate. This gate forms the entrance to the Royal Palace. The craftsmanship is stunning — look for the Garuda (eagle) battling serpents, as well as detailed depictions of a number of other Hindu gods.

Walk through the Golden Gate and you’ll reach the inner courtyards of the palace. The highlight here is Taleju Temple (in the second courtyard). It’s one of the most important temples in Bhaktapur and non-Hindus may not enter. But you can look through the gate and get a good glimpse of the intricate painting and wood-carving.

Continuing into the third courtyard, you’ll find a magnificent ancient water tank. Serpents are the theme here — along the sides, in the center, and forming the spout.

After you leave, look next to the Golden Gate for the 55 Windows Palace. It’s exactly what it sounds like — a palace with 55 windows. For more information about 55 Windows Palace and its history, read this article.

Most of the rest of the buildings around Bhaktapur Durbar Square are Hindu temples. Look out for the Char Dam Temples, which are popular pilgrimage sites, and the Erotic Elephant Temple — which is exactly what it sounds like. Other impressive temples include the large Pashupatinath and Siddhi Lashmi Temples.

The east end of Bhaktapur Durbar Square experienced the most severe earthquake damage. A handful of temples still stand, including a Buddhist temple with ties to the cult of the Kumari (child-goddess), but it’s harder to imagine what they looked like in their prime.

The best part of visiting Bhaktapur Durbar Square is that it is the only medieval square in Nepal that is completely closed off to vehicle traffic. You won’t have to dodge motorbikes or crazy taxi drivers — just the occasional cyclist and large tour group.

The Bhaktapur Durbar Square entrance fee is built into the $15 fee you pay to visit the entire historical city. If you didn’t already buy a ticket at one of the town entrance gates, you will have to pay at the western end of the square. Security staff check tickets carefully at all entrances. You can also get a detailed Bhaktapur Durbar Square map at any of the ticket offices.

Beyond Bhaktapur Durbar Square: Other important landmarks

Durbar Square may be the focal point of Bhaktapur sightseeing, but it’s not the only impressive place to visit in the city. In fact, Bhaktapur has three large squares with ancient temples. All of these Bhaktapur attractions are covered by the Bhaktapur entrance fee.

Taumadhi Square

The single best example of Newari architecture in town is in this plaza just east of Bhaktapur Durbar Square. The Nyatapola Temple is 30 meters high — making it the tallest temple in all of Nepal.

Unbelievably, the temple saw very minor damage from the 2015 earthquake, and it’s been entirely restored. Admire its perfect proportions from below before climbing the long, steep stairway past a series of stone animal guardians. It’s worth wandering around the top level, but only priests are allowed to enter the temple itself.

Taumadhi Square also has two other large temples. Both contain extensive Hindu iconography. While you’re wandering around, keep an eye out for the chariots lying around — Bhaktapur hosts an annual chariot festival. If you’re lucky enough to visit in April, try to time your Bhaktapur sightseeing with this amazing display of Newari culture and tradition.

Tachupal Square

About half a kilometer away from Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the town’s original central gathering place. Tachupal Square contains the city’s most fascinating statues and some of its oldest buildings. It’s at the top of the list of best places to visit in Bhaktapur.

The focal point is Dattastreya Temple. You won’t be able to miss the enormous stone guardians at the base of the stairway. Climb the stairs to see more impressive Hindu iconography. The temple looks quite different from the typical Kathmandu Valley architecture and is well worth visiting, even if you’re templed-out.

Tachupal Square is also known for the beautiful Peacock Window. This spectacular example of traditional woodcarving is one of the highlights of visiting Bhaktapur Durbar Square and beyond.

Pottery Square Bhaktapur

The third must-visit square beyond Durbar Square is Pottery Square. This is the center of the Bhaktapur pottery industry, which is one of the most important traditional crafts in the Kathmandu Valley. If you purchase a ceramic in Kathmandu, chances are it was originally produced here.

The main attraction is the thousands of clay pots left out to dry in the sun. You can also chat with the craftsmen and women who work at the outskirts of the square. There aren’t a ton of shops here to buy their wares directly — you’ll get better deals shopping closer to the city center (or just buying from Kathmandu). A handful of small temples line the square and the surrounding alleys.

In short, the main appeal of visiting Pottery Square Bhaktapur is a window into the town’s fiercely traditional side. Walking through the square, you’ll feel like nothing has changed in 300 years.

Bhaktapur Walking Tour

While these three squares and Bhaktapur Durbar Square are undoubtedly the highlights of a Bhaktapur tour, the city is extremely charming all around. Every small alley drips with history and culture. While the earthquake damage is definitely noticeable (especially as you’re dodging construction crews), the historical heart of the city is still well-preserved. There are dozens of places to visit around Bhaktapur.

The best way to see these Bhaktapur attractions is on a self-guided walking tour. Lonely Planet has a good one that takes you through all the main squares and best places to visit in Bhaktapur, but connects them with interesting courtyards and alleyways. Allow three hours. Part of the tour takes you outside the historical center, so be sure to hold onto your ticket to avoid paying the Bhaktapur entrance fee again.

If you have less time, at the very least, don’t miss the hidden Bhimsen Temple and the cluster of temples, shrines and water tanks in the area around Nava Durga Temple.

How to get from Kathmandu to Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Most people do their Bhaktapur sightseeing on day trips from Kathmandu. Luckily, it’s pretty easy logistically.

The fastest (and priciest) option is to take a taxi. From Thamel, this will run you about 800 rupees each way. You don’t need to pay your driver to wait for you — you can easily find another taxi driver to take you back after your visit.

Alternatively, take a local Kathmandu to Bhaktapur bus. These leave from a special bus park around the corner from Ratna Park in Kathmandu. Walk past the Ratna Park station on the right side of the road, and you’ll come to an overpass. Go up and to the left, cross the main road, and go down on the right side. You can’t miss the bus station — half a dozen large buses will be parked there. Ask someone for the bus to Bhaktapur and they’ll put you on the right one. It costs 25 rupees and takes about an hour.

The bus to Bhaktapur stops just outside the main entrance gate to the city. You’ll pay your Bhaktapur Durbar Square entrance fee a few meters from the bus stop.

When you go back from Bhaktapur to Kathmandu, be sure to tell the drivers that you want to go to Thamel (really, Ratna Park, but they’ll know what you mean if you say Thamel). Some buses go to the northern bus station in Kathmandu, which is pretty inconvenient.

You could also take a Bhaktapur tour from Kathmandu, or find a Kathmandu Valley tour that includes Bhaktapur. However, these types of day tours in Nepal are quite rushed. It’s really only worth it if you’re on very limited time. Prices start around $40.

Hotels in Bhaktapur

Want to spend more time in Bhaktapur? It definitely makes for a quieter and more pleasant alternative to Kathmandu’s chaos and pollution.

Everybody’s favorite budget Bhaktapur accommodation is Shiva Guesthouse. In addition to good, clean rooms, it has a great coffee shop and cafe on the ground floor. It’s right on Bhaktapur Durbar Square. At $13 for a private room, it’s a good deal.

Hotels in Bhaktapur trend more mid-range. The best place to stay in town if money is not a factor is Peacock Guesthouse. Rooms start at $45 including breakfast.

Where to eat on a Bhaktapur day trip

The biggest plus to spending a day in Bhaktapur is the great coffee options. If you’re tired of Nescafe with way too much milk, head here for a caffeine splurge.

Beans Cafe is the pick of the coffee shops. It’s at the southeast end of Bhaktapur Durbar Square. It’s so tiny you could easily miss it — and it only has about six tables. But the cappuccinos ($2) are so delicious, and the carrot cake and apple pie are pretty good too.

Alternatively, the cafe on the ground floor of Shiva Guesthouse is great. It also serves light meals like salads and sandwiches.

Beyond the coffee shops, Bhaktapur’s food scene is pretty meh. You’ll find the usual Nepali/pan-international restaurants. The pick of the bunch is the upper-floor Namaste Cafe in Taumadhi Square. You can get a great dal bhat for $3, and it comes with a good view of the temples.

Craving sweets? Don’t miss Bhaktapur’s most famous food — king curd. This ridiculously delicious and creamy yogurt dish is available from dozens of small shops. You’ll find it most easily on the road leading to Bhaktapur Durbar Square from the bus stop to Kathmandu. It’s about $0.75 for a serving (in a Bhaktapur pottery-style clay bowl, of course).

All in all, Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the best place in the Kathmandu valley — and in all of Nepal — to learn about the country’s medieval architecture and traditions. Even after the earthquake, it’s still an incredibly atmospheric place to visit. And it’s one of the easiest day trips from Kathmandu. Don’t miss this beautiful city while you’re backpacking Nepal!

What’s your favorite historical city? Leave a comment and let me know!

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