Quito — the capital of Ecuador — is one of the Americas’ greatest cities. Situated at an elevation of 2,800 meters, in a valley surrounded by Andean peaks, it’s naturally stunning. It has Ecuador’s best museums. The nightlife is great, as is the cafe culture. But the most interesting part is Quito Old Town (Quito Centro Historico in Spanish) — the colonial city center.
The best way to see the Quito old city is on a self-guided walking tour. You’ll need a full day to explore the churches, plazas, museums and monuments. But don’t worry — there are ample opportunities for cafe breaks. This is the perfect way to kick off your adventure backpacking Ecuador.
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Quito Old Town Walking Tour Map
Starting Point: Plaza Grande
The center of traditional life in Quito Old Town is the pretty Plaza Grande. Palm trees and well-manicured gardens line the walkways through the park, which centers around a large fountain. On weekends, the square is crowded with old men getting their shoes shined while they read the newspaper, kids running around, and ice cream vendors keeping everyone happy.
The plaza is ringed with ornate colonial architecture. Many of the buildings have been re-purposed to serve important modern functions. Look on the northeast side to find the former Archbishop’s palace — a gorgeous building that now contains shops and restaurants.
The Governor’s Palace
If you’re facing the cathedral, the long white building to your right is the Governor’s Palace. Today, it’s the home and office of Ecuador’s president.
Hour-long, free English tours of the palace leave every 20 minutes starting at 9 am. Show up early to reserve a ticket (you’ll see the line form on the far end of the plaza). The tours are well worth doing — the palace is filled with incredible murals and artwork. The exhibits are a celebration of Ecuador’s natural and cultural wealth. Tours end on the balcony of the palace. Overall, one of the most interesting things to do in Quito Old Town.
The Metropolitan Cathedral
The first church you’ll visit on this Quito Old Town walking tour is right on the Plaza Grande. The Metropolitan Cathedral seems pretty ordinary at first glance. But the real treasures are inside.
The main attractions are the murals that blend European Christian iconography with a unique Andean interpretation. Check out the imitation of the Last Supper painting — the disciples dine on cuy (guinea pig). Or look for the nativity painting featuring llamas along with the usual farm animals. These are some of the best displays of traditional artwork in colonial Quito.
Admission costs $3 for the church and another $3 to climb the bell tower. If you speak Spanish, you can ask one of the guides to show you around (included in the price of your ticket).
The Metropolitan Cultural Center
Across the street from the cathedral, this cultural center — housed in a historic building — features local and international art exhibitions.
Admission is free, and the exhibitions are very high-quality. I saw an international war photography show and some interesting modern art. Some exhibitions are not appropriate for small children.
To find out what’s on when you’ll be in town, check out their (Spanish-only) website.
Compañía de Jesús
The next stop on this Quito Old Town walking tour is the most beautiful church in the city — and probably in all of Ecuador. The Compañía de Jesús, or “Church of the Jesuits,” is known for its gold plated interior.
The main attractions are the elaborate design and traditional architecture. Everything from the exterior to the tiniest detail inside was perfectly thought through — after all, it took 160 years to build this church! The construction is highly symbolic. Take one of the free guided tours in English or Spanish to learn more about what the different components, from the paint colors to the pillar carvings, represent.
Admission is $5. Allow 30 minutes to fully explore this colonial Quito landmark.
Plaza de San Francisco
Next is a short walk to Quito’s most pleasant and one of its largest plazas. Plaza de San Francisco is anchored around the San Francisco Church and Convent. It’s a huge space, constantly filled by pigeons and ice cream vendors (even when it’s freezing and raining outside!). The views of the mountains surrounding Quito are nothing short of spectacular.
Cafe Break: Tianguez
This cafe is right underneath the church. Pull up a table on the plaza for some of the best people-watching in South America. If it’s raining, hide inside with the tempting smell of roasting coffee beans.
The main reason to come here is the absolutely perfect cappuccino ($1.50). Seriously, you’ll never have an espresso beverage this satisfying again. But if you’re starting to get hungry, you can also grab a small snack.
Tianguez also operates a fair-trade shop. They sell coffee, chocolate and handicrafts. It’s a good place to pick up gifts. Your money goes directly back to the (mostly rural) communities who produce the crafts.
Church and Convent of San Francisco
One of the best places in Quito Old Town to see classic baroque architecture is the interior of this massive church. It’s mostly carved wood. Much of the interior has been built and rebuilt many times due to earthquake and other damage.
Most of the church’s artwork is in the small museum next door. If you’re into religious art, it’s worth visiting, but it’s not an essential stop.
Admission to the church is free. The museum costs $2.50.
Lunch Break: Cafeteria Modelo
Next, backtrack slightly toward the Compañía de Jesús to get to the best cheap meal in Quito Old Town at Cafeteria Modelo. This tiny cafe doesn’t look like much from the outside. But it has fantastic empanadas and tamales. After your meal, get some of the home-made ice cream.
Meals cost around $4, with cheaper snacks available.
Casa del Alabado
Getting tired of exploring churches and old paintings? Mix it up with a visit to Casa del Alabado, the best place to see pre-Colombian artifacts in Quito Old Town.
The private collection includes works from the Incas and other South American societies. It’s arranged by theme — with an entire room devoted to shamanism — so you can see how different cultures interpreted widely similar legends and customs. Good displays in English mean you’ll come away learning a lot about ancient Ecuador.
Allow 90 minutes to thoroughly explore the museum. Admission is $4.
If you’re visiting Quito on a weekday, take a few minutes to wander around La Ronda — a pedestrian street — after visiting the museum. Stop into the galleries or just soak up the traditional vibe. If you’re visiting on a weekend, save your exploration for later (more info below).
Basílica del Voto Nacional
Walk off your lunch with a long-ish stroll to the north end of Quito Old Town. You’ll see the massive Gothic basilica well before you reach it. The towers loom over the entire colonial city.
The cathedral is a pretty typical example of Gothic architecture — huge arches, stained-glass windows, etc. But you’re here to visit the towers. Climb the stairs to the second level (and higher, if you dare) to see the “gargoyles” — in this case, iguanas and turtles!
Admission to the church is $1. Tack on another $1 to climb the towers.
Cafe Break: Cafe Dios No Muere
Yes, this bizarre little Cajun restaurant in the heart of Quito Old Town is tiny. And yes, it’s very popular for lunch. But if you visit a bit later in the day, you can snag one of the sidewalk tables in a charming alley.
The food is decent if you need a snack, but the real treat is the locally sourced coffee. Whether you prefer an Americano or a fancy sweet beverage, you won’t be disappointed. Plan on spending about $1.50 for your drink, and $5-6 if you order food.
Museo de la Ciudad
Next, head to the far southwest end of Quito Old Town to reach the City Museum. This ornate former hospital now houses a huge array of displays on Ecuadoran history and culture. There is a strong focus on the lives of indigenous people, past and present.
Displays are mostly in English, and massive information overload is a real possibility. Allow an hour to quickly pass through, or two hours if you’re deeply interested in history.
Admission to the City Museum is $3.
Plaza Santo Domingo
By now it’s probably getting dark. So finish your Quito Old Town walking tour in the city’s most charming plaza — Plaza Santo Domingo.
Evening is a particularly good time to visit. The church is all lit up and street performers come out in full force.
The church at the center of the plaza is pretty unremarkable, but it’s worth poking your nose in. Admission is free.
Weekend Add-On: La Ronda
On Friday and Saturday nights, Quito Old Town hosts one of the world’s greatest street parties. A mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street known as “La Ronda” turns into an open-air festival of music, food, and culture.
The party gets going around 7 pm. Find a cozy-looking restaurant with a band playing traditional Andean folk music. If you’re hungry, order a “locro de papa” — a typical potato and cheese soup. Otherwise, stick with canelazo, a slightly boozy, slightly spicy warm beverage made from naranjillo juice (like orange juice), cane liquor and cinnamon. Food costs around $4, and drinks are around $1.50. There is no cover charge for live music.
As you walk around, keep an eye out for street performers dancing in elaborate costumes. They’re there to entice you to attend a traditional dance performance at a nearby restaurant, bar or gallery (around $5). If you prefer to be the one dancing, stick around until 9 pm or so, when the salsa parties start.
Where to stay in Quito Old Town
There are pros and cons to staying in Quito Old Town instead of the backpacker district and heart of Quito nightlife, La Mariscal.
On the plus side, if you’re wondering, ‘is Quito safe?’, you’re better off staying in the Old Town. Solo women will feel safe walking around until about 10 pm on weekdays, or midnight on weekends. The downside is that food and nightlife options are very limited on weeknights.
By far the best choice for budget travelers in the Quito historic center is La Posada Colonial. $14 a night buys you a large private room with a shared bathroom literally steps from La Ronda. Book in advance, especially if you’re looking to stay on a Friday or Saturday night.
If you’re after a dorm, head to Secret Garden. Not only is it a great place to stay, it’s connected to the only hostel in Cotopaxi National Park — meaning easy, convenient trips to the world’s highest active volcano.
Of course, there are many things to do in Quito outside the historic center. After you visit Quito Old Town, consider taking a ride on the TelefériQo, visiting the museums in the New Town, or standing on the Equator at the Mitad del Mundo. Further afield, you can even do day trips to Otavalo and Mindo. This is truly one of the greatest cities on the continent — so be sure to spend some time here when you travel to Ecuador!
What are your favorite things to do in Quito Old Town? Leave a comment!
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